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Sheen Falls Lodge

Kenmare, Ireland

Let the Melody of the Waterfall Flood Your Senses. The title of its signature CD—a delightful collection of classic hits interpreted by resident piano maestro Jim Kiely—sums up the essence of a stay at Sheen Falls Lodge. In a word, it is an experience of perfect harmony. From the award-winning cuisine, superb accommodations and sublime service overseen by charming GM Adriaan Bartels to the spectacular natural setting and world class sporting opportunities, the Irish country house hotel hits all the right notes.

Set on 300 acres just outside the charming town of Kenmare, on the scenic Ring of Kerry in southwest Ireland, Sheen Falls offers 66 luxury guest rooms and 11 suites—including a nonpareil Presidential Suite that can be configured as a one or three bedroom unit with its own private entrance and housekeeping services. Whatever the choice, everyone is made to feel right at home. Wellingtons and Barbours hang by the entranceway in case of a sudden shower, cheery fires, redolent of local pine and oak, blaze in the stone hearths, and guests are encouraged to take their tea and homebaked cookies into the paneled library, which features over 1,500 volumes. There is also a computer with high speed Internet access for those who can’t bear to be away from their e-mail for a few days, but the far better choice is to click out of the normal routine and enjoy the host of special pleasures—both outdoor and indoor—afforded by the Lodge.

From the moment of my arrival, I was aware of water—the main entrance overlooks Kenmare Bay and the historic Sheen waterfalls serenade many of the guest rooms and terraced dining areas. As befits a country manor, there is superb angling—in season, 15 miles of private salmon and trout fishing are available, with local guides arranged on request. Shooting, tennis, riding and scenic walking paths are also available within the ground. I opted to explore the riverfront on horseback with Eileen Murphy, the ebulliant equestrian instructor who oversees the stables and leads rides through the estate and surrounding hills.

Guests will also find that golf is an integral part of a visit to Sheen Falls. The Lodge has an arrangement for tee times at the Ring of Kerry Golf Club, a charming and friendly local club just four miles away. It features a testing 6,869 yard par-72 world class layout designed by Eddie Hackett, highlighted by spectacular views overlooking Kenmare Bay and the distant Kerry Mountains. Head pro Adrian Whitehead, who came over from Old Head, is excited by the growing recognition the course is receiving. It is one of the undiscovered gems of the area. But if you are looking for a truly classic round, an hour’s drive along the famous Ring of Kerry will bring you to Waterville Golf Links, one of the legendary seaside links of Ireland. Ranked among the top courses in the world, it has recently undergone renovations by Tom Fazio. The changes have golf aficiondos raving, and it is one of the real “must plays” in the country.

In the evening, Sheen Falls provides the perfect counterpoint to a day of outdoor sports with gourmet dining and choice selections from the largest wine cellar in Ireland. Chef Mark Treacy, one of the cutting edge forces in Irish cuisine, has a passion for food. He says that over the past twenty years there has been a real revolution in Irish cooking, with homegrown talent studying abroad and then returning to combine different styles with the sublime local ingredients. The region around Kenmare is becoming known for its specialty farms, fresh fish, game and artisan cheeses. Farley takes his inspiration from the local land and sea—he is especially fond of the scallops, sugar snap peas and organic herbs. The resulting menu, with such dishes as fillet of turbot with fresh asparagus tips in basil-scented apple water topped with tomato fondue will quickly banish any stewing over missed putts or muffed chips. And don’t miss the marvelous selections of wines from around the world. Chatting up the jovial sommelier might get you invited for a tour of the cellar and a special sampling from one of the 13,500 bottles. After dinner, be sure to stop for a vintage port or Irish coffee at the hotel bar, where Jim Kiely goes wild on the keyboard until the wee hours—shirt buttons have been known to pop off during his rendition of “Great Balls of Fire.” You will find yourself wishing that the night—and your stay—would never end.

https://www.sheenfallslodge.ie/

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